What to pack for Berlin in December: Christmas markets

The story

Berlin in December, and by four in the afternoon it’s dark. That’s when the Christmas markets come into their own: rows of wooden huts under strings of lights, the smell of roasted almonds and grilled sausages, and brass music from somewhere you can’t see.

It’s 1 °C, and you stand outside for two hours. The cold doesn’t come from the air as much as from the ground: after half an hour between the stalls, it climbs through your soles. Your boots have thick soles and you’re wearing wool socks, so your feet last longer than your hands.

You buy a Glühwein, hot mulled wine, and it comes in a ceramic mug with a deposit, the Pfand, of a few euros. You can keep the mug or bring it back for your money. Several stalls take only cash, and you’re glad of the euros in your pocket.

The next day is grey, and a little snow falls in the morning. You spend it on Museum Island, where it’s warm enough to take the coat off, then ride the U-Bahn out to the market at Charlottenburg Palace. Before you board, you validate your ticket in the machine on the platform: inspectors check, and the fines are steep.

On Sunday the shops are closed, but the markets are open, and busier than ever. You go back for one more mug, in gloves thin enough to hold it and to take a photo.

Berlin in December is cold, grey and dark early, with a chance of snow and evenings around freezing. Pack for standing outdoors: warm boots with thick soles, thermal layers, gloves and a hat, and cash for the market stalls.

What to pack for Berlin in December

Pack for long evenings standing outside, and warm museums in between.

Clothes

A warm, windproof winter coat, long enough to cover your hips.
Thermal underwear or leggings: you’ll stand still outside for hours.
A sweater or fleece, easy to take off indoors.
A hat, a scarf and gloves thin enough to hold a mug or use your phone.

Shoes

Warm, waterproof boots with thick soles: the cold rises from the ground.
Wool socks, and a spare pair.

For the day

Cash in euros: many market stalls and small places take cash only.
A small bag that closes, for crowded markets.
A power bank: batteries drain faster in the cold.

Documents, money and tech

Passport, or a national ID card if you’re an EU, EEA or Swiss citizen.
A plug adapter if you come from outside continental Europe: sockets are types C and F, at 230 V.

Good to know

Weather: December runs from about −2 to 4 °C (28 to 39 °F). It’s mostly grey, often windy, and it snows on some days. The sun sets before 4 pm.
The markets: most open in late November and close on December 23; some run until December 31. A few charge a small entry fee. The mug deposit is returned when you bring the mug back.
Money: euro (EUR). Cards are accepted in more places each year, but cash is still king at market stalls, bakeries and small bars.
Shops: closed on Sundays and on December 25 and 26.
Getting around: buy a ticket before you board the U-Bahn, S-Bahn or tram, and validate it if it isn’t already stamped; there are no gates, and inspectors check.
Plugs: types C and F, 230 V.
Entry: Germany is in the Schengen area. If you’re not an EU, EEA or Swiss citizen, check whether you need a visa or a travel authorization before you go, and expect the EU’s biometric border check on your first entry.